There are two streets in Rio de Janeiro that commemorate the passage of Jose Antonio Moreira. One is the Rua Barao de Ipanema in the neighborhood of Copacabana Beach and the other the Rua Conde de Ipanema in the adjacent barrio of Ipanema Beach. Not much has been written about this influential Brazilian businessman of the Portuguese colony who was active during the reigns of Dom Joao VI , Pedro I and Pedro II. He happens to be my ancestor, and so I have put together a short and sketchy biography which relies on public documents and family archives. His story reflects the modernization of Brazil in the 19th century – from a slavery-manned plantation economy to a modern industrializing nation. It is also a tale of poor timing in real estate speculation and the dissipation of wealth by idle descendants.
The trail of the Ipanema de Moreira family starts in the city of Sao Paulo, Brazil in the late 18th century. Jose Antonio Moreira, the future Count of Ipanema, was born in Sao Paulo, October 23, 1797, the son of Jose Antonio Moreira (Father) and Ana Joaquina de Jesus. The family was of noble origin, from the Braga District of northern Portugal. Moreira is a common name in Portugal, meaning mulberry tree.
Jose Antonio Moreira (father) was a prosperous merchant in Sao Paulo with close links to the colonial administration. He had a key role in developing Brazil’s first modern industrial enterprise, the Ipanema iron works (Fundicao Ipanema).
Napoleon’s invasion of Portugal caused the Portuguese court of Dom Joao VI to flee to Rio de Janeiro in 1808. Dom Joao VI immediately eliminated all existing mercantilist restrictions on domestic manufacturing and actively supported industrial self-sufficiency. Iron smelting was considered a high priority and an area of with iron deposits in the vicinity of the city of Sao Paulo was chosen as a site for development.
The existence of iron ore deposits on the Ipanema Hills in an area known as the Fazenda Ipanema, nearby the village of Iperó, 125 km northwest of the city of Sao Paulo, had been known since the early days of the Portuguese colony. The site chosen for the iron smelter was located on the Ipanema River, a tributary of the Sorocaba River, and was surrounded by forests which could be used as fuel for smelting. The area had previously been inhabited by Tupi Indians, who had named it “Ipanema,” a reference to a river that has its source there. Ipanema means “stagnant or barren water” in Tupi-Guarani.
The company was established by Royal Charter in December 4, 1810 as a mixed capital shareholder company, with 13 shares belonging to the Portuguese Crown and 47 to private shareholders, businessmen with connections to the court. Jose Antonio probably represented the crown’s interests and was a founding investor. The project was of keen interest to Dom Joao IV who enlisted technical support from Swedish and German specialists, and he is s known to have visited the mill on multiple occasions.
The Fazenda Ipanema Ironworks, known as the Real Fábrica de Ferro de São João de Ipanema, smelted its first iron in 1816 and operated until 1895. A picture from 1890 is shown below.
The enterprise, which can be considered Brazil’s first modern industrial undertaking, included a dam and a 4-km railroad connecting the iron ore deposits with the plant. The area is now a national park and a popular tourist attraction. The structures of the mill are intact, as shown in the pictures below, and can be visited by the public.
The geographical location of the site is shown in the maps below.
Jose Antonio Moreira , both father and son, were actively involved with the Fundicao Ipanema. The future Count of Ipanema, who will be referred to as Jose Antonio Moreira from now on, was involved with the Ipanema Fundicao from an early age, and he would remain connected to industrial ventures in metallurgy and metal-working in Brazil’s first wave of industrialization during the imperial regime.
From the time of the Fundicao Ipanema, the Moreira family remained closely tied to the imperial court in Rio de Janeiro. By the early 1820s, Jose Antonio Moreira had settled in Rio De Janeiro where in 1823 he married Laurinda Rosa Ferreira dos Santos, the daughter of a Portuguese aristocrat from Porto. She was born in Rio de Janeiro in 1808 and died in Brussels in 1881. They has six children: José Antonio Moreira Filho, future 2 º Barão de Ipanema (1830-1899); João Antonio Moreira (1831-1900); Joaquim José Moreira (1832-?); Manoel Antônio Moreira (1833-?); Laurinda Rosa Moreira (1837-1920); Mariana Rosa Moreira (1842-?) and Francisco Antônio Moreira (1845-1930). (Francisco Antonio Moreira is my great-great-grandfather.)
Jose Antonio’s success as an entrepreneur and his service to the Imperial Court was recognized on numerous occasions with the highest honors: Comendador da Imperial Ordem de Cristo and Dignitário da Imperial Ordem da Rosa (Commander of the Order of Christ and Officer of the Imperial Order of the Rose), 1845; Baronato de Ipanema (Barony), 1847; Grandezas de Barão de Ipanema (Barony Grandee), 1849; Viscondado com Grandeza de Ipanema (Viscount Grandee), 1854; and Conde de Ipanema, 1868 (Count). Jose Antonio’s association with the Ipanema Iron Works and metallurgy are made clear by the choice of the Ipanema name. (Imperial titles of nobility were awarded on the basis of merit and service to the crown and. Generally, were not hereditary.)
The heraldic shields of both the Portuguese Moreiras and the Brazilian Ipanemas are shown below. Notice that both shields have the flourished cross, which in Portugal was the symbol of the Knights of Saint Benedict of Aviz, an order of chivalry founded in 1146. The Ipanema shield also has a blue line with five stars (representing the Ipanema River) and a Caduceu of Hermes (wisdom).
In 1844, during the reign of Pedro II (1831-89), Brazil adopted policies to promote industrialization and the import-substitution of manufactured goods which included stiff tariffs of up to 60% on imports. Prior to this reform, the country had relied extensively on British imports. The policy shift resulted in Brazil’s first wave of industrialization, which had as its leading entrepreneur Irineu Evangelista de Sousa (Visconde de Maua). Jose Antonio Moreira was an early investment partner and investment adviser to the Visconde de Maua. It is clear that Jose Antonio put his court connections and expertise in metallurgy to good use over this period, and he coinvested with the Visconde de Maua in steel, shipyard, banking, steamboat and railroad ventures.
Jose Antonio Moreira was the first president of the Banco do Brasil, a Visconde Maua venture that was crucially important in financing Brazil’s early industrialization and still plays a vital role in Brazil’s economy today.
Interestingly, in the Banco do Brasil’s founding charter documents Jose Antonio is described as a “national businessman involved in the business of ships and national goods” (comercio de navios e generos nacionais).
Jose Antonio also had business partnerships with foreign investors, including steel concerns in Belgium. From the mid-1850s Jose Antonio is connected to Brussels, and in 1860 his wife, Laurinda Rosa Ferreira dos Santos, takes up residence there. From this time, four of their six children are established in Brussels: Manoel Antonio, Marriana-Rosa, Laurinda Rosa and Francisco Antonio Moreira. Manoel remained in Brussels where he served a Brazil’s general consul, and his son, Alfredo de Barros Moreira, would serve as Brazil’s first ambassador to Belgium.
We have two portraits of Jose Antonio. The first is a sketch of him as a young man; the second, dating from the 1860s, shows him in his prime.
It is during the final phase of his life in the 1870s that Jose Antonio Moreira purchased an estate located some 12 km south of the center of the city of Rio de Janeiro. This area with more than 3 km of beaches facing the Atlantic is now known as the Ipanema Beach neighborhood.
The estate was purchased in 1878 and initially it was used as a country house (chacara). An artistic rendition of what the area may have looked like in the 1870s by the painter Eduardo Camoes (b. 1955- ) is shown below.
The map below shows the estate in the context of today’s Rio de Janeiro. The chacara extended from the southern tip of Copacabana Beach (delineated by the current Rua Barao de Ipanema) to the canal that connects the ocean with the Rodrigo das Freitas Lagoon and creates the division between the neighborhoods of Ipanema and Leblon. The property stretched into parts of modern-day Leblon, including the current site of the Monte-Libano sports club.
The land purchased by Jose Antonio Moreira was known at the time as “Praia de Fora de Copacabana,” which was part of a larger area called the “Fazenda Copacabana.” Most of the property was purchased from Charles Le Blond, a French entrepreneur who ran a whaling operation called “Alianca,´ and had secured a monopoly on supplying Rio de Janeiro with whale oil. Le Blond went out of business in the 1860s when the Visconde de Maua introduced gas lighting to the city of Rio de Janeiro, and this may have provoked the sale of the property. Vestiges of Le Blond’s whaling operation include the names of the Leblon Beach neighborhood as well as Arpoador (Harpooner) Beach at the easternmost point of Praia de Fora. The rocky promontory which separates Arpoador Beach from Copacabana played an important part in the whaling operation as an ideal lookout to detect migrating pods of whales.
The area was originally occupied by Tamoia Indians, and, briefly, in the 1550s it was the site of a French military outpost. Reportedly, an early Portuguese governor eradicated the Indian population by furnishing them with blankets infected with smallpox (apparently a common practice in the 16th century).
The southern and western parts of the “Fazenda Copacabana” also were widely used for large sugar cane milling operations and cattle grazing from the 16th to the 19th centuries in the area which stretches from Leblon to the Jardim Botanico. The eastern part of the Fazenda Copacabana (modern day Copacabana and Ipanema) were inappropriate for farming because of sandy, acidic soil (restinga) and, in the case of Ipanema, frequent flooding from the lagoon. One of the few structures in the area was the Igreja of Nossa Senhora de Copacabana, a Carmelite hermitage founded in the early 16th century. The hermitage had a copy of a statue of the Virgin Mary from the Church of Nossa Senora de Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca in Peru which was said to have miraculous qualities, and that is the source of the name of the beach.
In all likelihood, the purchase of the Praia de Fora was made as a farsighted speculative real estate bet. As a prominent businessman with close ties to the Viscount of Maua and the imperial administration, the Count of Ipanema knew the city’s plans for urban development. Central to this vision was the Companhia Ferro-Carril Jardim Botanico, a Viscount of Maua venture, that was planning to expand its tramway coverage to the southern beaches of Rio de Janeiro. Moreover, he was certainly aware of the mid-19th century European boom in beach resorts made possible by railroads and by a newfound appreciation for the health benefits of the sea. Unfortunately, the Count passed away in 1879, leaving the future development of the area in the hands of his eldest son.
Jose Antonio Moreira Filho was 49 years old when his father passed away. He appears to have been a successful businessman in his own right and highly regarded by the Imperial Court, and he was decorated on several occasions: Commander of the Military Order of Christ and the Order of Our Lady of the Conception of Vila Vicosa (the paramount award given by the sovereign for services rendered to the Royal House). He received his baronage by decree in 1885, and the grandeeship by decree in 1888. He married Luisa Rudge, daughter of George Rudge and Sofia Maxwell. His father-in-law was Joseph Maxwell (1772-1854), one of Brazil’s richest men, founder of the Maxwell Wright commission house. This was a trading house with strong links to the American and British markets which was a leading participant in the coffee export boom and a facilitator of the Atlantic triangle trade (imports of grains and manufactured goods from America, exports of coffee and slave trading with Africa). The Rudges were business partners with Joseph Maxwell. Both the Rudge and Maxwell families were originally merchants from Gloucester, England.
The only portrait we have of Jose Antonio Filho is the one shown below, made in the 1870s before he had become the Baron of Ipanema.
Jose Antonio Moreira Filho’s plans for “Praia de Fora” depended on improved access to the southern beaches. The estate had been accessed primarily from the sea by occasional tourists. This changed when in 1892 the Companhia Ferro-Carril Jardim Botanico inaugurated the Copacabana Tunnel (today known as Alaor Prata), linking Botafogo Beach with Copacabana Beach, and providing tram service between the center of Rio and the southern beaches. A tram line covering the entire extension of Copacabana beach was completed by early 1894.
In anticipation of the further extension of the tram service, in April 1894 the Vila Ipanema real estate development project was officially launched. The land holdings owned in Copacabana and Leblon were not included in Vila Ipanema, and may have been donated to the city or incorporated into other developments being actively promoted at the time.
The layout of the Vila Ipanema can be seen in the two documents below. The first, dating from 1894, is the original urban design commissioned to Luiz Rafael Vieira Souto who was the Chief Engineer of the Municipality of Rio de Janeiro. The second, dating from 1919, is from a marketing brochure.
Vila Ipanema divided the area into 45 blocks. The standard block was broken into 40 lots, each measuring 10 meters by 50 meters. More than a million m2 of real estate were put on the market.
The initial launch included 19 streets and two public squares (General Osorio and Nossa Senhora da Paz). Most of the street names honored family members, associates and political allies of the Baron and his partners. For example, the main road at the time of launch was the Rua 20 de Novembro (Visconde de Piraja), which commemorated the date of birth of Luisa Rudge. Of the original names few remain: Alberto Campos (brother in law) remains; Avenida Vieira Souto, in honor of the urban planner, still graces the waterfront.
Jose Antonio Moreira Filho had several partners in Vila Ipanema: Coronel Antonio Jose Silva, Jose Luis Guimaraes Caipora and Constante Ramos. The Coronel incorporated land he owned in Praia de Fora into the Vila Ipanema project. In 1901 the shareholders of Vila Ipanema were: Ipanema de Moreira family, 90%; E. de Barros, 6.5%; Coronel Silva, 3.5%; Ulysses Vianna, 1.0%.
Jose Antonio Moreira Filho’s luck seems to have run out in his final years. He was 64 years old when Vila Ipanema was launched and in bad health. Given his intimacy with the imperial court, the deposition of Pedro II in 1889 and his exile to Paris may have seriously undermined his business affairs. Surely, when the Count acquired the estate he had not countenanced an end to the imperial regime. The proclamation of the First Republic in 1889 was followed by political instability and economic crisis, and the flight of both human and financial capital. In the five years from the time of the coup-d’etat which ousted Pedro II to the launch of Vila Ipanema in 1894, the real, the Brazilian currency, lost 60% of its value relative to the U.S, dollar, and it would lose another 40% before stabilizing in 1899. The 1890s would also see the rise of Sao Paulo as Brazil’s dynamic economic center and the magnet for waves of Italian and Japanese immigrants.
By the mid-1890s almost all of the Ipanema de Moreira family was settled in Europe, either in Paris or Brussels. Brazil was far away and becoming a distant memory. When the Baron passed away in 1899, the majority control of Villa Ipanema went to Francisco Antonio Morreira who resided in Paris and had not lived in Brazil in 40 years.
The following account from Francisco Antonio’s son (nephew of the baron), Alberto Jorge de Ipanema Moreira, gives some color:
“In the spring of 1898 we travelled to Rio, my father, my aunt and I. My father and my aunt went to try to salvage what was left of a brilliant fortune. Their brother, the Baron of Ipanema, who was their proxy, was old and sick and his business affairs had collapsed. The only thing left were the immense land holdings in Copacabana and the “Praia do Arpoador’” now renamed “Villa Ipanema.” Following the death of the Baron of Ipanema, an agreement was reached with his heirs on one side and my father and my aunt on the other, that the remaining land for sale would be divided so that the heirs would keep 35% and my father and my aunt would receive 65%. Though born in Rio, my father, my aunt and my mother – she of English descent, Rudge by her father and Maxwell by her mother – had spent little time in Rio, having been sent at a young age to study in England. They had little notion of the assets they had in Brazil.”
Franciso Antonio Moreira, my great-great grandfather, was a bon vivant living the high life between Paris and Nice. He was married to Maria Tereza Rudge, the second daughter of Joseph Maxwell, and, presumably they both had inherited large fortunes from their parents. However, it seems that they lived well beyond their considerable means. More on this from his son Alberto Jorge:
“It would seem that this family settlement had been very favorable for my parents. It didn’t turn out that way; quite the contrary, they lived for the next thirty years receiving only crumbs. This great capital withered away, used only to cover the most basic and indispensable expenses. The lots in Ipanema sold poorly, and my father wanted to sell at any price. He was born a great lord, and had no notion of thrift. Very elegant and handsome, he loved sport, especially horses; generous and extremely charitable, of an uncommon righteousness, he saw no evil and was not made to manage a fortune.”
Francisco Antonio had six children: Alberto Jorge (Brazilian diplomat), Maria Luiza (my great grandmother who married Eugene Robyns de Schneidauer who was a Belgian diplomat), Leonora, Maria Thereza and Jose. All of them resided and passed away in Europe. The first photo shows him around 1900 in ceremonial Court regalia. The second photo is a family portrait taken in 1929, near the end of his life, where he is seated next to his wife in the middle, up front.
The following pictures shows Ipanema Beach at the turn of the 19th century and in 1930. Notice how poorly developed it remained in 1930, still marked by the characteristics of the “restinga.”
The sales of the Vila Ipanema lots were painfully slow, as no one wanted to invest in that “fim do mundo.” This was in part because of competition from developers in Copacanana Beach who offered plenty of supply with closer proximity to the city and public transport. Moreover, though both Ipanema and Copacabana were marketed as “healthy and hygienic,” Ipanema was plagued by mosquito swarms when the lagoon periodically overflooded.
Poor sales also were caused by the delayed expansion of the tram service, which reached the General Osorio Square only in 1902. By the end of that year only 112 lots had been sold, which represented about 6% of the available inventory.
Development expenses also ran out of control. Capital, administrative and selling expenses were still taking up over 60% of revenues in the early 1900s. High construction costs led to the farming out of development work to a contractor in 1905, the Companhia Constructora de Ipanema, which did similar work in Copacabana and Leblon. In 1906, this company completed the embankments of the lagoon, providing a permanent solution to the flooding.
The table below shows the Vila Ipanema sales revenue stream from 1900 to 1930, by which time very few lots remained. These numbers are presented in 2020 U.S. dollars, adjusting for inflation and currency depreciation. The real lost half of its value over this period. The peak of sales occurred between 1911-1915, a period of economic strength and real appreciation. The evolution of the real from 1984 to 1930 is shown in the following chart.
Over this 30-year period, total Vila Ipanema gross revenues were $15.1 million (constant 2020 USD). Net revenues after all expenses amounted to $12 million, of which $6.5 million went to my great-great grandfather, Antonio Francisco Moreira. By the time of his death in November 1930, a small fraction of that capital remained.
Of course, in retrospect it I easy to say that this capital was grossly and irresponsibly dilapidated. Ipanema today is prime luxury real estate and a beachfront apartment on Ipanema Beach may cost 3 to 4 million dollars. Unquestionably, the best strategy for a long-term investor would have been to build a big wall around the property and wait.
However, the reality is that Ipanema remained a sleepy and distant neighborhood, particularly compared to Copacabana, until recent decades. It was not until the 1960s that it received some notoriety as a fashionable destination. Since the 1960s, the social and cultural center of Rio de Janeiro has moved rapidly to the southern beaches, leading to huge appreciation in real estate.
When Antônio Carlos Jobim’s family moved to Ipanema in 1933 it was because his mother was recently divorced and could not afford to live in a nice neighborhood. For the same reason, a wave of immigrants settled there after W.W. II. In the 1960s, Antonio Carlos (Tom) Jobim’s generation made Ipanema famous with the Bossa Nova. It was from the terrace of the Bar Veloso on the Avenida Prudente de Moraes that Tom spied the “girl from Ipanema”, Helo Pinheiro, walking home bikini-clad from the beach, and the rest is history.
There are thousands of covers of Girl From Ipanema; the most recent from Anitta.
https://apnews.com/article/anitta-girl-from-ipanema-rio-brazil-bb45163a74e7d47c23a38f09a4cbe1e3
Great note, very interesting
! I see now that investing in Brazil is in your blood.
Dear Mr. Walle, you are amazing. Congratulations for the reserach.
Thanks, Fernando.
Too bad you weren’t around to advise your Belgium-based Brazilian forbearers on investing in emerging markets real estate, oceanfront property sector. The wife and kids would be having vacations that would make the Jersey shore pale in comparison. (Ignore resolution of the time travel dilemma.)